Atlanta was the first place I ever stopped in the US, a layover in 2005 on my way to see my future wife. I still to this day remember the unforgettable experience at the airport Burger King as the lady serving me, sensing I’d been waiting for my order too long, yelled to her coworker in the back, “BITCH, GET ME THEM DAMN FRIES”. Welcome to America.
Here we are sixteen years later and my first time intentionally visiting Atlanta. A place that doesn’t jump to mind when you think of great American tourist destinations but my old mate Matt “Skinny” Lincoln, the best man in my wedding and friend of 33 years, was just a few hours drive away in Charleston, South Carolina and a few months ago we discussed meeting up somewhere new, taking in some sport and who knows maybe a bit of culture. How far we’ve come since our old tactic of just hunting down the customary Irish pub.
The sport I had in mind was an MLS game between Atlanta United and LAFC. The latter through a growing fondness and the former out of curiosity. Here was a club only in the fifth year of it’s existence, with a title already under its belt in 2018 and one that could boast extraordinary attendance figures. The club plays at Mercedes Benz stadium, home of the Atlanta Falcons of the NFL and regularly draw crowds of over 60,000, making them the most watched MLS team by some distance and more impressively, putting them in the top 10 average attendances in world football. That would surprise a lot of European and South American fans and what is remarkable to me about this is that Atlanta is not a city with nothing else going on, they already have successful NFL and NBA teams. It’s a very unique thing that’s gone on there in the brief few years of the franchise.
Atlanta United and LAFC, to me represent a new growing, vibrant MLS. Both with large boisterous followings and star power.
So me and Skinny met up on Friday night, checked in at the marvelous Hyatt Regency downtown and after some much needed food at the hotel, headed to a rooftop bar named Sky Lounge. I love a rooftop bar. Always puts me in mood for an overpriced drink and a panoramic view of the city. Sky Lounge doesn’t disappoint. A bit small but a nice ambience and a terrace with skyscraper views and the gigantic Mercedes Benz Stadium just a few hundred yards away.
The next morning we took in the National Center of Civil and Human Rights for which there are too many adjectives to describe.
It was extremely humbling and well put together, taking you on a journey through some of the worst of America’s history to some of the most uplifting and inspiring. Atlanta played a huge role in the Civil Rights movement being the birthplace and home of Martin Luther King Jr. The museum gives you a comprehensive understanding of what minorities and human beings in general have been through and continue to be go through, not just here in America but across the world. It’s a fascinating place that left me short of breath a couple of times and as a parent, leaves you determined to make sure your child grows up not only knowing the realities of the past but learning from them and ensuring they help their generation be on the right side of history.
The day also included an Irish pub lunch (oh wait, damn it) watching the opening weekend of the Premier League season, a poolside beer at the hotel, a magnificent steak dinner at a restaurant named Ted‘s Montana Grill and a sketchy Uber ride out of town to a pool hall, which thankfully turned out to be a very friendly place. Sunday was game day and after a trip to “The World of Coca Cola” museum, which to be honest, I wouldn’t really recommend unless you’re a real Coke nerd, we made our way after lunch to the stadium.
The entrance reminded me of AT&T in Dallas, a large expansive view when you first walk in at one end. It’s absolutely massive and even though the roof was open for the game, the roof is just a circle in the middle that doesn’t fill much space so it still feels very much like you’re inside. I wasn’t expecting to spend any money on Atlanta United merchandise but once inside the impressive store, I came to learn they issued a special edition shirt to celebrate Juneteenth which features the words Justice, Unity and Peace in multiple different languages around the world. Sign me up.
Our seats were at the opposite end to the home “ultras” and next to a very healthy contingent of traveling fans from LA which was great to see. The visitors sang and beat their drums throughout the game and I expected nothing less. Like most American stadiums, people tend to take their seats at the last minute and with so many eating and drinking outlets and TV’s provided, many fans hang around the concourses. So it wasn’t until a decent amount of time into the game that we got to fully appreciate the size of the crowd, 67,503. Atlanta United had more of the play and chances in the first half with LAFC looking threatening on the break. The visitors had a goal ruled out by VAR right at the end of the half as me and Skinny made our way around to the other end of the stadium to see what kind of different vantage point we could get.
What I love about this stadium is that one end, above the “supporters section” is two levels of open concourse with a bar style vantage point, similar to the side of the field half way up at SoFi. So we were able to grab a beer and stand and watch the second half just above the loudest fans in the stadium.
It was a unique experience and an early second half goal from star striker Josef Martinez of Venezuela was enough as Atlanta ended up clinging on for a much needed three points. Much needed because they have had a rotten start to the season with Gabriel Heinze, the former Manchester United and Argentina defender being fired as coach recently after a bad run of results and inexplicably freezing out the star man Martinez. Now they are back on track under temporary coach Rob Valentino and have just appointed former Mexico World Cup scorer, Gonzalo Pineda as the new head coach. For LAFC, their search for form continues and an interesting end of the season for both teams loom.
All-in-all I absolute loved “The Benz” and would place it above AT&T but below SoFi. I definitely left with a soft spot for Atlanta United.
That night we had a magnificent Indian meal which is something that I crave on a regular basis having being spoilt in England for so long, the options this side of the Atlantic, in California at least are somewhat disappointing. The restaurant just happened to be next to the same pool hall we went to the previous night so we popped in there again and Skinny got his revenge for the beating i dished out. I blame a full and very content stomach. The following day was Monday and time to go home but not before some more culture. A few minutes from downtown is the birth place of Martin Luther King Jr, a number of exhibits, statues and parks in his honor and the famous Ebeneza church where he and his father both preached. These were quite a moving experience to visit and walk the path he would have taken to church.
The area also includes a giant street mural of the Civil and Voting Rights activist, John Lewis which felt like a timely visit considering a lot of his hard work in the 60s is currently trying to be somewhat reversed by certain red states, in order to give themselves a better chance of winning elections. Shameful is the most polite word I can think.
I finished my trip with my first ever experience of Chicken and Waffles and a visit to the College Football Hall of Fame, which if you’re into College Football was an extremely well put together and fun experience.
Thank you Atlanta, I learned a lot. Your food was exceptional, people friendly, the culture and history rich and moving and the soccer unique and memorable. I’ll be back.
